Form of shaping and finishing garments.



H. L. NBLKE.

FORM FOR SHAPING AND FINISHING GABMEN'IS. APPLICATION rrnnn MAR. 15, 1911.

Patented May 14, 1912.

2 SHEETB-SHEBT 1.

WLUMIIA PLQNOCIRAPH C0" WASHINGTON, D C- H. L. NELKB.

FORM FOR SHAPING AND FINISHING GARMENTS.

APPLICATION TILED MAR. 15, 1911.

Patented May 14, 1912.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

COLUMBIA PLANOORAPH cm, WASHINGTON, D. c.

ITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HERBERT L. NELKE, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

FORM FOR SHAPING- AND FINISHING GAB/MENTS.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HERBERT L. Nnnxn, a citizen of the United States, residing in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, have invented certain Improvements in Forms for Shaping and Finishing Garments, of which the following is a specification.

My invention consists of a form for shaping and finishing garments and is particularly adapted for use in my process of manufacturing knitted combination suits or the like as described in my application for United States patent filed December 14, 1910, Serial No. 597,253.

In order to make what is known as a lace bottom or umbrella bottom combination suit, it will be understood that, as the suit is made from a tubular fabric of even diameter, the gussets inserted in the leg portions will have to be extremely large to give the desirable wide flare. Heretofore in manufacturing suits of the above type, the cloth is first steamed in the roll, owing to the cloth being shrunken by the process of bleaching. Various methods and machines are employed for this steaming process. After the cloth is steamed, it is allowed to dry and then cut into lengths. The garment is then cut and shaped and gussets inserted to make the garment finish to desired dimensions and the trimming and sewing completed. The next operation is the finishing, many methods being employed. The one most universally followed is first rough folding, then pressing by means of a mangle or press; then folding preparatory to boxing. Here it will be seen that, as the ironing or pressing will often stretch or shrink some garments more than others owing to the variation in the heat or the way the operator handles them, it is practically impossible to finish a number of garments exactly to a given size and shape and, therefore, there is often uncertainty as to the sizes of the garments in the boxing or packing of the same.

The foregoing process is old in the art, and I do not claim the same as my invention.

The chief object of my invention is to produce combination or union suits known as lace or umbrella bottom suits, the leg portions of which will be wide and have an unusual flare, said flared leg portions being formed without the insertion of extra large gussets.

Another object of my invention is to make it possible to uniformly finish any number Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed March 15, 1911.

Patented May 14, 1912.

sci-m1 No. 614,643.

of garments to a predetermined size and shape.

Another object is to produce a suit of the above type from a piece-bleached fabric made from yarn of uniform thickness and in which the character of stitch is the same throughout the entire fabric.

Still another object is that garments which are finished by the aid of my invention will be narrowed down and shaped at the waist portion, said shaping being accomplished without cutting any goods away or forming a seam.

These objects I attain in the following manner, reference being bad to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure l, is an elevat-ional view of a primary form which I employ; Fig. 2, is a View of the main primary form with a garment stretched thereon; Figs. 3 and 4, are elevational views of two stretching or auxiliary forms which I employ; Fig. 5, shows the auxiliary forms within the leg portion of the garment and attached to the primary frame; and Fig. 6, shows the garment after it has been subjected to steaming and drying and the auxiliary forms removed.

Referring to the drawings, 1 is the primary form made in the present instance of non-rustable round wire and shaped at 2, to form leg portions. Transverse reinforcing wires 3, 4 and 5 extend from side to side of the form. The transverse wire 4 has sockets 6 and 7 formed therein for the reception of hooks 8 and 9 on the auxiliary forms 10 and 11 respectively. The upper portion of the primary form is indented at 12 to conform to the contour of a persons waist. A socket 13 isformed in the extreme upper portion of the primary form by which the latter may be suspended. The auxiliary forms 1.0 and 11 have an increasing taper from the bottom to the top. For the purpose of finishing knitted garments as mentioned above I preferably construct the primary form, as shown in Fig. 1, having its dimensions bearing a certain relation to the bleached fabric of the garment and to the fabric before it was bleached. These dimen sions are as follows: The width 00 on the primary form is substantially the same as the width of the unbleached fabric. The width y of the said primary form, and which corresponds to the waist portion of the garment, is less than the width of the unwidth of the leg portions 2 of the primary f form 1.

In the use of my invention: the garments.

- dependent of the primary form, said auxil- 5 iary form being attached to; the primary After the portion 1 of theprimary form.

' 2. .The combination of a primary form for garments having its contour shaped to correspond to the bust, waist. and limb portions are first slipped over the primary form (-as shown in Fig. 2) and the latter is preferably suspended from the socket 13. garment has been thus placed upon the primary formtheauxiliary forms are placed one within each leg of the garment, so that the hooks 8 and 9 engage the sockets (land 7 in the transverse member of the primary form. The leg portions of the garment are thus stretched to an abnormal width as shown in Fig. 5. The garment, while on the forms can be allowed to remain suspended from the socket 18 for steaming and drying as disclosed in my application for. patent Serial No. 597,253 filed December 14th 1910.

To remove the garment from the-forms, the

auxiliary forms are unhooked from the primary form and are allowed to drop from the leg portions as shown in Fig. 6. The entire garment may then be slipped ofi the primary form. I 1

I -VVhile my invention is particularly adapted to the manufacture of lace bottom or umbrella bottom suits, it will be understood that it can be used in making: a wide sleeve in a sleeved garment or for the production of-a wide-flare skirt on aapetticoatg etc.

Also, while I-have shown and described the forms as being constructed of non-rustable wire,I may make them of any other material or of a different construction if desirable.

- Nhilel have described this inventionas being particularly adapted. for shaping and finishing garments in accordance With my process for whichl have made application for'patent, the serialnumber of whichvis 597,258, filed December 14:, 1910, where certain portions of the forms aremade .to have certain specific relations to a bleached fabric and to a fabric before it is bleached, it will be understood that my invention can be used for shaping, v drying and finishing garments of any construction or material.

I claim: 1. The combination of a primary form for garments; and a tapered auxiliary form 1nformwith its narrow end adjacent the body of a garment; and a plurality of tapered auxiliary forms .det-achably connectedto the primary form with their narrow ends adjacent, the junction of the limb portions and body portions of the primary form, I

3. The .combination of a primary form comprisingaawire,frame having a shaped contour correspondingtothe bust, waist and limb portions ,of a garment; means for suspending said primary form; a plurality of tapered auxiliary forms;v andmeans for suspending the auxiliary forms with their narrow endsr adjacent the junction of the, limb and waist portions of the primary form.

A. The combination of. a. primary form, having itsfcontour shaped to correspond to thelbust, waist-and limb portions of a garment; meanswhereby the primary form may be -suspended said primary form. having. a plurality of, sockets ..formed therein two tapered ,lLlXllliLr-XTQIIHS, eachv of said auxiliary forms...havinga hoolnadjacent its narrow-end; said hooksbeing. adapted to the socketsand forming means whereby the. auxiliary forms may be suspended from the pri maryforms. v

3 In testimony, whereof, I have signed my nametothis,specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses;

vi HERBERT L.-NELKE. Witnessest,

Aususrus Corrns, WM. A. BARR.

Copies of this patent may be obtained forfive cents eachfb y addressing the Commissioner of lPatents, -Washington, D.- G.?.. 

